Great Sicilian Merlot—Lessons For Rising Wine Regions

Sicily is an exciting place to be making wine these days. Producers that range from tiny family outfits to the major estates are all playing various roles in the internationalization of the region’s presence and potential clientele. That very process, of increasing the notoriety of Sicilian wines, of course, does not preclude both sacrifice and experimentation. Much like in other exciting regions such as Spain’s Somontano, experimentation with international grape varieties can drastically set the production profile apart. Seeing how, unfortunately, many of the largest export markets such as the United States seem to be fashion and trend-driven, being at the forefront in some ways can prove to be quite beneficial. In turn, sacrifice comes into the picture when such experimentation casts aside indigenous varieties and yields spoofed, confected and to a great extent, contrived wines bereft of the terroir’s individuality.

The more one reflects upon this dialectic between experimentation and sacrifice, which producers of all scales face when tending to their craft in promising regions that are in the process of developing the capacity to attract the world at a level that New World nations have done, the more I see Sicily on the winning side of the equation. Even if the creation of the IGT scheme (indicazione geografica tipica) in 1992, to allow for much-needed innovation in Italian winemaking has attracted criticism, this measure, along with investment, has done Sicilian wine much good. Critics have alluded to a point that can best be characterized in the following way: “Innovation is wonderful, but what can the IGT label guarantee, in terms of quality?” The point is a valid one, as in a parallel situation, one cannot really know how great a disparity in quality to expect when presented with two bottles of French Vins de Pays. The issue of disparity, in light of this example especially, can particularly become a prominent annoyance. One bottle may be lovely, whereas the other one may be insipid. Though a fair point to bring up, I think that those who dismiss the Vin de Pays, as well as the Italian IGT schemes are reluctant to acknowledge an “elephant in the room” of sorts that is pertinent to such a discussion—the painstaking work involved in tasting enough to discern between enormous gulfs in quality.

This last aspect of the discussion is what brings me to my conclusion regarding Sicily’s developing industry. Taking into account the type of challenge that Italy’s IGT scheme presents to producers as well as consumers, as well as the usual set of industry factors that together yield a barometer reading for success, so to speak, I am anticipating many great things coming out of Sicilian vineyards and cellars over the next decade. The level of investment necessary is there, along with serious local involvement and conscientious integration of the indigenous varieties and perspectives that yield something unique. In light of the global financial downturn, consumers in all the major export markets are as open-minded as ever when seeking out quality bargains. Having had the opportunity to taste the wines of the prestigious estates that are spearheading Sicilian wines’ cause to the world, as well as the efforts of more modest cooperatives, my research has always yielded nothing more than pleasant surprises. Egregious discrepancies in terms of quality, as a result of the IGT scheme, may perhaps be more of relevant a discussion point in regions such as the Veneto, but not yet in Sicily.

One of the most important lessons to draw from watching a developing region like Sicily is the paramount importance of diversity. From a producer’s standpoint, it is simply not good enough to adopt innovative methods and practices alone, but to complement the approach with diversity. A great many of the Sicilian Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and blends featuring indigenous varieties such as Nero d’Avola all provide a unique opportunity for showcasing the island’s distinct strengths. This reminds me of a relatively recent episode in the world of wine, where a handful of Bulgarian producers began to make exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Sadly, however, when reminded of the varietal-driven trends, sometimes by fashion, though increasingly clinical studies about the benefits of consuming wine, the Bulgarian producers had not anticipated the degree of experimentation their innovative approach would require to yield a diverse panoply impressive enough to generate the buzz required to attract more attention. For better or for worse, and if one permits the expression, the world now moves much too swiftly to put all of one’s grapes in one basket. The surge in notoriety of Sicily's quality wines, at all price points, is well evidenced by this particular lesson.

This Week’s Pick: 2007 Cusumano Merlot Sicilia IGT

I never thought that any of the Cusumano wines, at the varietal label level at least, would ever really elicit much more excitement than a passive nod. Not in the case of this Merlot, however, which happens to be a great example of how Sicilian wines are capable of putting on a masterful tightrope act. Rather than sacrificing originality and aligning with the juicebomb-oak paradigm that many New World producers turn to, this Merlot’s expressiveness is a real breath of fresh air. Despite the plain, unassuming packaging, this intelligent value Merlot packs great varietal expression with the island’s warm, west-central climate’s tendency toward spice notes and good concentration. Full-bodied but with a smooth texture,the prune and soft berry flavors are nicely balanced with berry acidity. Other complex accents include subtle pepper, liquorice, cinnamon and a hint of smoke. Though a couple of years in the cellar would certainly help develop more finesse, this is a great wine to enjoy now. It would pair well with a beef stew or a mushroom dish with a similarly hearty sauce.