Slovenia's Culinary Diversity and My Favorite Rebula

What with the Summer Games currently placing China and its regional cuisines in the limelight in terms of reflecting nearly a continent’s worth of complex, multi-ethnic influences, we should also consider other similarly impressive culinary miracles that geographically take up an infinitesimally tiny fraction the size of China—say Slovenia. In my understanding at least, Slovenia has always represented a fascinating crossroads within an impossibly modest amount of land. Many diverse and even warring influences have laced Slovene customs, viticulture and cuisine. Somehow though, like a cultural or culinary manifestation of the metaphysical concept in J.L. Borges’ The Aleph, individual influences never amass into an incomprehensible amalgamation, but rather, remain clearly discernible.

Whether in its fairly recent history as a sovereign republic, under communism or seemingly serving as the geopolitical puck between Napoleon and the Habsburgs’ shuffleboard match, Slovenia’s former overlords and neighbors include decidedly unique food cultures—Croats, Istrian Italians, Hungarians and Austrians, among others. Bearing all of this in mind and turning our thoughts to the central concern here on Enotheque, I would like to recommend this wine from the Goriška Brda region. Aside from being one of the wines I’ve been enjoying recently, I chose to post on it because I strongly feel that it’s indicative of the impressive quality-value dynamic that importers and retailers could benefit from should markets seem more receptive to the artisan wines of Slovenia.

Even if one is already familiar with the Colli Orientali of Friuli’s Ribolla Gialla, the Slovene version, Rebula, is more than worth trying. As a whole, Slovenia and the Goriška Brda produce white wines of impressive caliber, be it from more distinctly regional varieties or others introduced from abroad: Briski Tokaji, Teran, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sivi Pinot, Pinela, or Rebula for that matter. In terms of this one, vintner Matjaz Cetrtic farms Rebula on wide, terraced limestone vineyards, purposefully limiting yields to ensure lush, concentrated and nuanced wines. My notes follow for the 2004 Matjaz Cetrtic Ferdinand Rebula Brda:

Tasting Notes…

Appearance-wise, this wine is medium gold. The nose is clean and of medium intensity, with highly unusual though pleasantly different aromas of caramelized or burnt orange peel, citrus, flowers and minerals. Strange, delightful palate with just enough lemon acidity, hint of underripe green fruit flavors, minerality in the form of pebbles, as well as the aforementioned burnt orange peel flavor that leads into a nice finish. If in search of something wildly, completely different, I wouldn’t doubt to reach for more Slovene wines such as this Cetrtic Rebula.

As a closing note, should the unbelievable degree of complexity in tiny Slovenia’s food and wine heritages impress you and compel you towards further learning, visit the culinary section of what appears to be their official tourism portal on the web.