In terms of export trends, it seem as though higher-end Argentine Malbec/Cab types of blends imported to the North American and UK markets have garnered better consumer reception than single varieties. Don’t get me wrong, I have enjoyed many of these and will continue to do so, though recently I must confess that I’ve been feeling a bit bored. This is precisely when I need to turn to a winemaker who can think outside the box and take me somewhere different than the usual Cab/Malbec blends. Who could I turn to?
Susana helped me think outside the box—Susana Balbo, that is. One of Argentina’s premier winemakers, her Syrah-Bonarda blend is one of various compelling examples of her brilliance. It’s an intelligent value steal and as a bonus, it is meant to be consumed more or less young. Argentine Syrah as a whole doesn’t get all of the credit that it deserves—combined with the second most planted red, Bonarda, you get this beauty, with meaty tannins and lots of dark fruit/red fruit complexity. My favorite aspect of this one revolved around the irresistible, concentrated plum, cherry and black raspberry flavors, with the Bonarda contributing the nice red berry acidity. The oak and warm spices are a great, subtle backbone that won’t overwhelm with one of those cheap death-by-vanilla finishes. As with a great deal of grapes harvested from the Andean foothills (elev. about 2300ft), both components of this 50/50 blend were hand-harvested from vines in Mendoza’s Rivadavia department that are on average, 40 years old.
What a wonderful blend to try with grilled meats now that the weather is improving. Yet another excellent example that shows what finesse Mendoza blends can have without Malbec involvement.
Susana Balbo’s Crios wines are made available by Vine Connections, the premier boutique Argentine wine importer out of San Francisco. If you’re having trouble finding it in your area, try Wine-Searcher or the importers themselves.
0 comments:
Post a Comment