Midweek Winter Drudgery Rescue: Susana Balbo’s Valle de Cafayate Torrontés

I left off with aromatic Argentine white wines? This calls for a drastic change in direction. I could, perhaps veer towards some of those lovely power reds I have on queue, but my seasonally inappropriate wine bender has no limits, does it?

Well, especially after that last rant about Catena, you may be curious about Argentine wines and want to know: “So, Mr. Argentine native man, you left off dealing with Viognier in your last post, but which producer’s Torrontés (Argentina’s native aromatic white) is available in North America and Europe that constitutes the real deal and not some special “para gringos”* cuvée?”

Incredibly inexpensive for the quality (found mine for $10.99), Susana Balbo’s Críos Torrontés constitutes both a phenomenal introduction to the varietal for neophytes as well as a go-to favorite for long-time aficionados such as myself. I love Balbo’s winemaking prowess because at no point does she compromise authenticity—her wines are informed by her philosophies and tastes, making for spectacular examples of what the varietals can do both in Mendoza and Salta. The end-result? Of course, they are both greatly appreciated across both domestic and export markets.

Oh yes, major credit to Gary from WLTV for showcasing intelligent-value Argentine Torrontés selections in one of his recent shows, although I was a bit disappointed in the absence of this particular wine. Unlike some of the other example of Torrontés available here in North America, Balbo’s is sourced from high altitude (about 5,800 ft.) plots in the sandy Valle de Cafayate, Salta province. Trade secret for those interested—Argentina’s most sophisticated, nuanced examples of Torrontés originate predominantly and consistently from Salta, so don’t let the big Mendoza exporters tell you otherwise—there’s more to Argentina than Mendoza.

Susana Balbo’s wines are imported by Vine Connections, which boasts a very impressive portfolio of Argentine as well as, why yes, Japanese producers. I am quite grateful to have access to these types of wines in the U.S., so here’s a toast to them and like-minded importers. My notes for this recommendation follow…

Visual/Aromatic Profile: Translucent straw and nuanced floral perfumes with notes of wild flowers, elderflower and soft treefruit and citrus.

Texture: Outstanding complexity with refined expression—leaning more towards the crisp, clean and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc end of the spectrum rather than the loud, busy Torrontés that exporters sometimes send my way here. Pear and peach flavors are accompanied by perfect acidity and sweet lemon. This is beautiful, honest Torrontés with nothing to hide and no overbearing sense of anything to prove.

*Unlike in other forms of Spanish spoken in the Americas, the term gringo in the Río de la Plate region is not exclusively used (or even pejoratively) to refer to Americans, but rather, any type of foreigner in general.